Login
Mawenzi is the second highest peak on Mount Kilimanjaro. The rugged peak of Mawenzi (5,149 m) lies to the East. The top of its Western face is fairly steep with many crags, pinnacles and dyke swarms. Its Eastern side falls in cliffs over 1,000m high in a complex of gullies and rock faces, rising above two deep gorges. The terrain of Mawenzi peak makes it unreachable but by technical roped ascents (supplied by an individual client). Technical climbers can hike the present seven sub-peaks namely Nordecke 5136 m, Hans Meyer 5149 m, highest point, Purtscheller 5120 m, Borchers 5115 m, Klute 5096 m, Latham 5087 m and Londt point 4945 m depending on the time and season of the year.
Introduction to Trad Climbing Gear
Trad climbing requires a significant amount of specialized gear to ensure a safe and successful climb. When building or enhancing your trad rack, it’s essential to follow basic guidelines to ensure you’re well-prepared and comfortable as you tackle various pitches. This guide provides an overview of the standard trad climbing equipment and recommendations for assembling a reliable trad rack.
Standard Trad Climbing Equipment
Before diving into the details, here’s a list of essential trad climbing gear:
Gear Recommendations for Building a Trad Rack
While there is no one-size-fits-all answer to what gear should be included in a trad rack, certain essential elements are non-negotiable. These gear recommendations serve as a starting point for selecting and organizing your rack. Your personal preferences and budget will also play a role in refining your choices.
Cams
Cams, or spring-loaded camming devices, are crucial for any climber’s trad rack. They allow climbers to place protection in varying-sized cracks, with sizes ranging from small fissures to hand-sized cracks. A standard set of cams typically ranges from 0.4 to 3 inches, but it’s always a good idea to check a specific pitch’s beta before packing your gear.
A standard cam setup might include models like Black Diamond X4, C4, C3, or Ultralights, which offer a range of sizes from 0.3 to 4 inches. Beginners or those on a budget might start with a basic set like the Black Diamond C4s, covering sizes from 0.5 to 3 inches. It’s recommended to stick to one brand and type of cam for consistency in size capacity, color coding, and design elements.
Nuts
Nuts, or stoppers, provide passive protection by sitting tight in rock cracks. Most climbers will need just one set, typically containing 10 or more sizes. These metal pieces are essential and relatively inexpensive, making them a staple in any trad rack.
Non-locking Carabineers
Non-locking carabineers are fundamental tools for trad climbers, used to clip ropes into placed protection. It’s advisable to carry 20 to 30 non-locking carabineers for various applications. The shape and gate style of these carabineers depend on personal preference, but asymmetrical D-shaped ‘biners with straight wire gates are popular due to their lightweight and ease of use.
When selecting non-locking carabineers, consider their capacity, size of the opening, and weight. Asymmetrical wire gate ‘biners are favored for their versatility and durability, particularly in sandy or dusty environments.
Locking Carabineers
Locking carabineers are reserved for belays and anchor-building. You should carry 2 to 4 of these on your rack. While screw-gate lockers are common and affordable, auto-locking carabineers add an extra layer of safety.
Nut Tools
No trad rack is complete without a nut tool, especially for the follower responsible for cleaning the pitch. These tools, typically made from metal with wrench holes and a striking surface, are essential for removing nuts from the rock. A good nut tool is strong yet lightweight and costs between $10 to $30.
Accessory Cord
A bit of accessory cord is necessary for building anchors and other tasks. A length of 18 to 25 feet of 7 to 8 mm cord is ideal. Properly bundling the cord is crucial to prevent tangling and ensure quick access during climbs.
Runners
Runners, also known as slings, are versatile tools used for clipping protection, anchoring, and reducing rope drag. They come in various materials like nylon or UHMW polyethylene, each with its own set of advantages. For example, UHMW is lightweight and weather-resistant, while nylon offers more elasticity and better knotting capabilities.
A typical runner set includes single-length slings (60 cm) for over-the-shoulder gear carrying and double-length slings (120 cm) for alpine quick draws. Quick draws, which are shorter extensions, are crucial for reducing slack and preventing cam walking. Padded gear slings with multiple loops can also be helpful for organizing and carrying gear.
Fundamentals for Building a Trad Rack
How Much Gear to Carry
Building the ultimate trad rack requires balancing accessibility, weight, and the demands of the climb. A typical setup includes 6 to 10 runners and 4 to 6 alpine quick draws. Carrying too much gear can cause drag and increase the risk of falls, so it’s important to optimize your rack for efficiency and ease of use.
Racking Methods
Your gear can be carried on over-the-shoulder slings, hooked directly onto your harness loops, or a combination of both. Over-the-shoulder slings help reduce waist drag and evenly distribute weight, while harness loops allow for better organization and easy access to frequently used gear. Combining both methods can provide additional storage and organization options, depending on personal preference and the specific climb.
Optional Additions for Safer Climbs
Auto Blocks/Prussic
Auto blocks and Prussic knots provide additional safety during rappelling. These friction-tight knots are used as backup stops, allowing climbers to rest or arrest a fall. A short piece of nylon cord or sling can be used to create these safety knots, and they are essential for preventing disastrous falls.
Offsets
Offsets are asymmetrical nuts designed for odd-shaped cracks. Made from strong metal, they provide reliable protection in flares and other challenging placements.
Purchasing Duplicates
If your budget allows, consider purchasing duplicate cams, especially for sizes you use frequently. Consistency in brand and size is key to maintaining an organized and effective trad rack.
Tri Cams and Micro Cams
Tri cams and micro cams are specialized tools for unique placements. Tri cams can function as both passive and active protection, while micro cams are ideal for small cracks and pin scars. These tools are more challenging to clean but can be invaluable in certain situations.
Conclusion
Building a trad rack is both an art and a science, requiring careful consideration of gear placement, weight distribution, and accessibility. By understanding the essential gear and exploring different racking methods, you can develop a system that works best for your climbing style and preferences. Whether you’re just starting or looking to refine your setup, a well-organized trad rack is crucial for safe and successful climbs.
| 1 Pax | 2 – 5 Pax | 6 – 10 Pax | 11+ Pax |
|---|---|---|---|
| $ 3,428 | $ 3,200 | $3,100 | $3,000 |
